Adventures on Rhapsody

This is Rhapsody's logbook - it covers experiences starting in San Diego in 2007 as we travel through Mexico, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and in Bocas Del Toro, Panama.

Note that the most recent entries are listed first!

Part 9 - Bocas Del Toro:
2009-05-31 Reflections - after a year and a half on RHAPSODY, a pause to reflect on my experiences.
2009-05-10 A week or so out to Cayos Zapatillas and Agua with some of the best snorkeling we've ever had.
2009-04-03 Starfish Beach, Pigeon Creek, and Crawl Cay
2009-03-29 Bastimentos Boat Races 2009
2009-03-28 Another month in Bocas including Carnivale,St. Patrick's Day
2009-01-18 Chris Visits - my best buddy Chris flies down from Vermont to spent 4 days and 3 nights in Bocas Del Toro with us on RHAPSODY
2008-12-31 New Years 2008 - - where Bill, Andy, and me played a gig at Playa Mango
2008-12-25 Christmas 2008 - decorating the boat, the parade, potluck dinner, and the boat parade
2008-12-20 First Impresssions - our first weeks in Bocas pass in a blur as we see the town for the first time, take care of immigration, and fall into a number of musical jams
Islas Carenero & Bastimentos
2008-12-15 To Bocas Del Toro - - 231 nm in two legs from the San Blas Islands to Bocas Del Toro, with a stop at Isla Veraguas. A very bumpy passage and our first overnight in over 6 months, as we encounter 20-25 knots right on the nose, a 2 knot counter current, and 3-5 waves at 3 second intervals and a bit of rain all night long.

Part 8 - San Blas Islands
2008-12-12 End of our stay in the San Blas, including another 5nm to a couple days in Nargana and a final full sail of 25 nm to our last visit to Porvenir to check out. Bye San Blas!
2008-12-08 11 nm Sail to the Green Islands
2008-12-05 Isla Tigre - A nice 25 nm half-sail to Isla Tigre where we spent two nights off the populated island
2008-11-30 San Ignacio de Tupile - - A short hop to this island village where we get to know the people, check out some of the culture, and in general, are touched by the experience.
First Visit
Second Visit
Last days in San Ignacio de Tupile
2008-11-26 Snug Harbor - about 24 nm where we spend Thanksgiving and visit the town of Playon Chico.
Visiting Playon Chico, and Thanksgiving on BLUE SKY
Dinghy Exploration and Breeze's Birthday
2008-11-20 Visa Week - as we travel 25 nm from Nargana to Porvenir, only to find out that the Immigration Office will be closed for 5 days, so we hang out for almost a week in Chichime, then go to Porvenir, get renewed, and head back to Nargana.
5 days of mostly rain at Chichime
Back to Porvenir to Renew our Visas
Back to ... Nargana ...
2008-11-16 Nargana - about 12 nm to this non-traditional Kuna town where we were able to have some internet access and get some provisions
2008-11-12 The Swimming Pool - a short 2 nm or less from the West to the East Holandes and the Swimming Pool, where we spent 4 nights and did a little Cave Snorkeling
Dinghy Excursion to Cave and Wreck Dives
2008-11-10b 12 nm to the Holandes Cays and Miriadiadup to spend two days and nights relaxing, eating lobster and enjoying the great snorkeling.
2008-11-10 Porvenir and Miriadiadup - we motor 5 nm over to Porvenir to check in.
2008-11-06 The East Lemon Cays - A short 2 nm, after going aground once, to the East Lemon Cays, anchoring between Nuinudup and Banedup for four nights, including volleyball, a potluck, and a dinghy ride and snorkel at the wreck off Dog Island.
Cruisers Clubhouse, Volleyball and Potluck
Dinghy ride to Dog Island to dive the Wreck there
2008-11-02 Chichime - 40 nm to the Chichime Cays (Uchutupu Dummat and Pipigua), where we spent 4 nights, having finally arrived in Paradise!
Meeting the Islands and the People

Part 7 - Panama Canal
2008-10-27 Isla Linton - a 20 nm sail & motor to cover the 12 nm from Portobello to this anchorage, where we spent nearly a week sitting out steady rains
Isla Linton Anchorage, a week of Rain and Boats A-Dragging
2008-10-25 Portobelo - 20 nm across the shipping lanes to this beautiful and very historic town where we stayed for two nights.
Fuerte Santiago
The town of Portobelo
Fuerte San Jeronimo
2008-10-13 Shelter Bay Marina - where we spent two weeks getting hauled out and having the bottom painted and getting to know some really nice cruisers.
Haul Out, Bottom Paint, Buff and Wax
Hiking and Exploring around the Marina (and Boat Chores)
Trips to Colon and Renewing our Paperwork
Music and Friends
2008-10-11 Transiting the Panama Canal - 42.5 nm in about 9 hours as we rise almost 100 feet thru the Miraflores and Pedro Miguel Locks to Gatun Lake, and then step down to the Caribbean Sea for the first time through the Gatun Locks.
Miraflores Locks
Pedro Miguel Locks
Gaillard/Culebra Cut and Lake Gatun
Gatun Locks and down to the Caribbean
To Shelter Bay Marina
2008-09-16 Our Second Visit to Panama City - 28 days at a mooring at the Balboa Yacht Club, taking care of paperwork, boat chores, and playing music
Renewing our Visas and Cruising Permit
Jammin' at BYC with Frank, Joe, and Friends
The Windlass Problem (again)
More Boat Chores
Signing up to Transit the Canal

Part 6 - Perlas Islands
2008-09-14 Back to Panama City and Summary of Pacific Panama - after leaving Isla Contadora, we made our way back 44 nm to Panama City and the Balboa Yacht Club where we'll prepare to transit the canal in the next month or so. As such, this ends Part 4 of our journey.
2008-09-09 Over to Playa Caracole (Northwest Anchorage)
2008-09-08b Snorkeling at the Northeast Anchorage, Isla Contadora
2008-09-08 Dinghy ride to Isla Bartholome
2008-09-07 Another short hop over to Isla Contadora for our last four days in the Perlas Islands, WAHOO pulls in and we say howdy, we visit Isla Bartholome by dinghy, and have cocktails with CARINA and SUWARRO BLUES
2008-09-05 6 nm over to the anchorage between Isla Mogo Mogo, where the 'Survivor' T.V. series is filmed, and Isla Chapera. We spent two nights here, checking out the islands and going snorkeling
Survivor Sets, Exploring Isla Chapera again, and more Snorkeling
2008-08-31b Five days waiting out the weather at Islas Casaya and Ampon
2008-08-31 A few miles from Espiritu Santo we stop in the village of San Miguel for a bit, on our way to Isla Casaya and Isla Ampon where we stay 6 nights, partly waiting out some weather.
2008-08-24 about 12 nm for a week at Espiritu Santo, the preferred cruiser's anchorage in the Perlas Islands
Jam with Frank on WINDSONG
Explorations at Espiritu Santo
Trivial Pursuit Night
2008-08-23 Stopping by Esmerelda Village and Isla San Telmo
2008-08-22 13.5 nm over to Isla Del Rey, where we stayed at Cocos Anchorage
2008-08-20 16.5 nm for 2 nights at Ensenada Grande, Isla San Jose
2008-08-18 Finally leaving Panama City, we make our way 44 nm to the Perlas Islands, starting with 2 nights at Isla Pedro Gonzalez.

Part 5 - Pacific Panama
2008-07-26 Our first visit to Panama City - a short 25 nm run from Isla Bona across the world's busiest shipping lanes to a very busy 3 weeks in Panama City, the largest city we've been to in months. Our first time here, there are four pages of text and pictures as we work a ton on the boat and party pretty hard during our stay here!
Sun-Wed, July 27-30th - Boat Chores and Mary's Birthday Party
Thu-Mon, July 31st-August 4th - Exploring Panama City
Mon-Tue, Aug 4-5th - MORE Boat Chores and Jam with Frank from WINDSONG
Wed-Fri, Aug 6-8th - MORE Boat Chores
Thu, Aug 7 - Dinner with Max and Vittoria
Mon-Wed, Aug 11-13th - Chores and Exploring Casco Viejo
Fri-Sun, Aug 15-17th - Final Boat Chores
2008-07-24 Rounding Punta Mala, 94 nm to Isla Bona - and the saga of Ketchin Ups Propeller Shaft
2008-07-22 The difficult 77 nm getting into Ensenada Benao for two nights
2008-07-21 Ensenada Naranjo - a nice stop on our way around Punta Mala on the way to Panama City
2008-07-20 2 nm to a night at Platanal, Isla Cebaco
2008-07-18 14 nm to 2 nights at Los Almacigos, Isla Cebaco
2008-07-15 Islas Santa Catalina and Cebaco - 23 nm from Bahia Honda to Isla Santa Catalina where we spent 3 days before going an additional 14-16 nm to two anchorages on Isla Cebaco where we spent two and one nights respectively.
2008-07-14 16 nm from Muertos to Bahia Honda where we spent one night and got fuel.
2008-07-11 Ensenada Muertos - from Islas Secas, about 28 nm to Ensenada Muertos where we spent 3 nights
2008-07-05 Islas Secas - about 22 nm from Isla Gamez to Isla Cavada in the Islas Secas where we spent 6 nights with KETCHING UP, WAHOO, and DELFIN SOLO, snorkeling, exploring and catching Dorados!
2008-07-04 4th of July party at Isla Gamez - about 10 nm back to Isla Gamez for a 4th of July party with KETCHING UP, WAHOO, DELFIN SOLO, Max and Vittoria
2008-06-20 Isla Ventana, Boca Chica, and David - approx 28 nm, mostly sailing, we moved from Isla Parida over to Isla Ventana, near Isla Brava and Boca Chica, where we met Bill and Ariana, went to David to officially check into Panama, experienced problems with the Genset, which Ariana helped us solve when she took us into David to find a main seal for the generator and helped us bring back 30 gallons of fuel to Rhapsody. The 12 day stay was finished off by meeting Max and Vittoria and having a wonderful dinner at their house on Isla Brava.
Broken Genset Fanbelt and Lunch at Cala Mia
Exploring Boca Chica and Hiking Isla Ventana with Ariana
Checking into Panama in Pedregal and David
Generator Problems (and back to David with Ariana)
Dinner with Max and Vittoria
2008-06-14 Islas Parida and Gamez - approximately 86 nm from Golfito we cross into Panama to visit Isla Parida. We bypassed the anchorages at Ensenada Los Negros and Punta Jurel as too rolly, and spent 4 nights at the lovely picturesque Isla Gamez. From there we visited Isla Bolanos, once again finding it too rolly to overnight, so we proceeded to Ensenada del Varadero where we spent two more nights in the island group.
Isla Gamez
To Ensenada del Varadero
Snorkeling Pics

Part 4 - Pacific Central
2008-06-10 Quick Summary - of El Salvador, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica
2008-06-06 Golfito - we spent 9 nights on a mooring at the Tierra y Mar (Land and Sea) marina here, including celebrating my birthday and a trek through the jungle, as well as the usual boat maintenance stuff.
We went for a nice hike through the jungle in the hills surrounding Golfito
Some cruiser friends in Golfito
2008-06-05 Bahia Drake to Golfito - Approximately 70nm final leg on the way from Puntarenas to Golfito.
2008-06-04 Quepos to Bahia Drake - Approximately 60nm third leg on the way from Puntarenas to Golfito.
2008-06-03 Herradura to Quepos - approx 45 nm
2008-06-02 Puntarenas to Herradura - The first leg (approx 27 nm) of four on the to way to Golfito as we skirt the monsoon rains and thunderstorms
2008-05-19 Puntarenas - where we stayed about a week at the Costa Rica Yacht Club.
We decided to stay in Puntarenas another week due to the coming of what was to be Tropical Storm Alma.
Tropical Storm Alma and the Logjam - we felt some of her wrath as tons of debris floated down river and created a Logjam on Rhapsody
2008-05-16 Los Suenos - a short jaunt to this rolly uncomfortable anchorage, but hey, at least it was expensive!
2008-05-14 Two nights at Isla Tortuga
2008-05-10 Islas Cedros - Jesusitas - 3 nights at Isla Cedros with Gallivant, a nearby island in the Gulf of Nicoya, Costa Rica
2008-05-08 To Bahia Ballena - in the Gulf of Nicoya 44 nm in 8 hours from Cocos
2008-05-07 Bahias Carillo - 66 nm in 10 hours from Coco to Carillo for one night
2008-05-05 Bahia Huevos (and back to Coco)
2008-05-03 Bat Islands and Bahia Huevos - Two nights at Islas Murcielagos (the 'bat' islands') meeting up and snorkeling with SOUTHERN BELLE and KETCHIN UP.
2008-04-28 To Playa del Coco and Ciudad Liberia - Bahia Culebra, Gulf of Papagayos, a short 40 nm motor and sail from Bahia St. Elena to this cool little beachfront town.
Inland to Ciudad Liberia
Other Cruisers
2008-04-24 To Bahia St. Elena - 143 nm in 25 hours to Costa Rica avoiding the Papagayos winds and bashing our way to this beautiful bay.
Safe and Sound in the Bay
Exploring Bahia Santa Elena
Last Day in Santa Elena
2008-04-20 Marina Puesta Del Sol - We spent 6 nights at this lovely marina in Nicaragua, made some new friends and helped out a bit.
Provisioning in Chinandega
2008-04-17 To Puesta Del Sol - a somewhat uneventful, if busy, 87 nm passage over 21 hours in which I actually only got one hours sleep in over 36 hours.
2008-04-08 Barillas Marina - we stayed 9 nights at this fine marina in El Salvador. Highlights included a run into nearby Usulutan, checking out the Spider Monkeys, and hanging around the pool with our cruising friends.
2008-04-05 Crossing the Tehuantepec - 520 nm in about 80 hours, the main concern being lightning and thunder.

Part 3 - Pacific Mexico
2008-04-04 Summary of Trip so Far - a brief recap of the trip so far as we say goodbye, for now, to Mexico, and depart for El Salvador and points south.
Great Memories
Checking Out
2008-03-25 Ciudad de Oaxaca - We took a bus from Marina Chahue to Oaxaca City, about 100 miles inland as the crow flies, where we stayed for 5 days and nights, explored the ruins of Mt. Alban, Mitla and Yagul and went to a Mexican Baseball Game and enjoyed the many Cathedrals, Museums, and evenings at the lovely Zocalo there.
The Ancient Ruins of Monte Alban
The ancient ruins of Mitla
Making Mezcal
The ancient ruins of Yagul
El Tule Tree
The Baseball Game
Santo Domingo de Guzman
Benito Juarez Museum
Monte Alban Treasures, Archaeological Museum and Ex-Convent
Final Reflections of Oaxaca
2008-03-12 First days in Huatulco - We spent the first 6 nights at Marina Chahue, doing boat chores, jamming a bit, and exploring the nearby towns of Crucecita and Santa Cruz, then spent two nights in nearby Bahia Tangolunda, stopping at Playa Entrega for some snorkeling.
Two nights in Bahia Tangolunda
Snorkeling at Playa Entrega
2008-03-10 242 nm passage to Huatulco (Marina Chahue), including Puerto Angel
2008-03-08 Puerto Marques - A few miles from Acapulco, we stayed 2 nights in Puerto Marques.
2008-02-19 Acapulco - 120 nm in 24 hours from Ixtapa to Acapulco
Windlass Problems in Acapulco
Exploring Acapulco
Fuerte San Diego
La Quebrada Cliff Divers
Repairing the Windlass
Breaking and Repairing the Guitar
Goodbye Acapulco!
2008-02-03 To Zihuatanejo - 190 nm in 30 hours from Las Hadas to Z-town where we had a wonderful time, jammed and partied with friends.
Jamming at Ricks Bar and Paccalo's
Snorkeling at Los Gatos and Dinner with Louis and Laura
Isla Grande, back to Z, and Marina Ixtapa - a quick daysail and overnight at Isla Grande, then back to Z for a couple of days before moving the boat over to Ixtapa Marina
Back to Zihuat for a few more days
Over to Ixtapa Marina
2008-01-31 To Las Hadas - a quick 30 nm jaunt from La Barra, we spent 3 nights here at 'the Fairies'
Daytrip to Manzanillo
2008-01-20 Barra Navidad and Melaque - 21 nm, virtually all under sail! to this great anchorage and towns where we met some new friends and enjoyed plenty of music during our twelve day stay!
Day 2, Monday - Meeting Frosty and Street Fair in Melaque
Day 3, Tuesday - Dinner at Alcatraz and 1st Gig/Jam at Piper's
Day 4, Wednesday - Boat Chores and To Colimilla
Day 5, Thursday - Day Trip and 2nd Gig/Jam at Piper's
Day 6, Friday - Recovering and Dinner with Bill and Joanne
Days 7 thru 9 - Saturday thru Monday - Boat Chores
Day 10, Tuesday - To Golf Course for Late Breakfast and Building Webpages
Days 11 & 12, Wed and Thu - Fill Fuel, Final Provisions and Departure
2008-01-16 Bahia Tenacatita - 34 nm under motor to Bahia Tenacatita for four nights of exploring and snorkeling, including a 5 mile jungle river trip in the dinghy.
Snorkeling in Bahia Tenacatita
Jungle River Dinghy Trip
2008-01-13 - Approximately 55 nm from Ipala to Chamela for three nights
2008-01-12 Ipala - 50 nm from Marina Vallarta to one night in Ipala
2008-01-11 Marina Vallarta (yech)
2007-12-17 To La Cruz - sailed about 15 of the 55 nm from Chacala to La Cruz where we stayed at the Marina Riviera Nayarit and had a blast exploring the town, playing music, and partying.
First Impressions of La Cruz
Music at Philo's, Latcho and Andrea, and Ana Banana's
First Trip into Puerto Vallarta
Christmas in La Cruz - at Philo's for a great meal and Santa for the kids
New Years in Bucerias - a paying gig at the Bucerias Gardens with Hock, Nick, and Bill. Great food and good times!
Heat Exchanger Problems - had to get the heat exchange re-cored, which added a week to our stay in La Cruz.
Lots more music in La Cruz
Final Sights of La Cruz
2007-12-15 Chacala - a wonderful little piece of paradise only 23 nm and a few hours from San Blas.
2007-12-10 San Blas and Mantanchen Bay - 48 nm and 8 hrs from Isabela. A minor grounding incident at the San Blas bar and 3 nights in Mantanchen Bay.
San Blas Sightseeing
2007-12-08 To Isla Isabela - 100 nm, about half sailing, from Mazatlan in 20 hours. A true island paradise, not to be missed by cruisers, we fell in love with this island and it's bird population.
More Chart Discrepancies :-(
Isla Isabela - Hiking, Birds Galore, and Snorkeling
2007-11-27 Mazatlan - 135 nm and approximately 24 hours from Altata, we spent nine days here at the El Cid marina.
With PK to the main El Cid & Sabalo Centro
In Mazatlan, we met an interesting artist named Lopus Diarakato
Old Mazatlan, the Cathedral, and ...

Part 2 - Baja California
2007-11-24 Across the Sea of Cortez to Altata - 171 nm in a long 29 hours when we got to experience our first minor storm at sea, lightening, and a bar crossing into the bay.
2007-11-21 To Isla Partida - we visit beatiful El Cardonal cove in the Espiritu Santos Islands for two days and nights. A short 28 nm jaunt from La Paz in 5.5 hours.
2007-11-18 5 days and 4 nights in Marina De La Paz
2007-11-17 With PK to La Paz - PK's first night watch! Approximately 157 nm in 27 hrs.
2007-11-14 Baja-Ha-Ha Leg 3 to Cabo San Lucas - Pretty uneventful trip from Bahia Santa Maria to Cabo San Lucas, approx 183 nm in 28 hours, mostly motoring. Also includes pics of our time in Cabo, including PK's arrival.
2007-11-11 Our own Leg2 to Bahia Santa Maria - We made it from Bahia Tortuga to Bahia Santa Maria covering 254 nm, sailing about half the way, in about 44 hours.
2007-11-09 We fix the starter motor while waiting a week in Bahia Tortuga Bay
2007-11-03 False Start to Baja Ha Ha Leg 2 - Burned up starter motor and had to turn back to Turtle Bay (40 nm in 9 hours. Spent a week in Turtle Bay waiting for a replacement starter to be shipped from the US.
2007-11-02 Baja Ha Ha Leg 1b - Tortuga Bay Beach Party
2007-10-29 Baja Ha Ha Leg 1 - We sail virtually the entire 385 nm from San Diego to Tortuga Bay in just over 59 hours

Part 1 - Before Trip
2007-10-28 Baja-Ha-Ha Kickoff Party at West Marine in San Diego.
2007-10-21 Bon Voyage Party with the CJ Hutchins Trio, Forgotten Space and a bunch of good friends
2007-10-20 Bay Sail with Devin and Ruth
2007-09-15 Catalina Sea Trial Leg 1 - 3 days with Steve Whittlesey to Catalina Island, starting with San Diego to Avalon - 93.7NM, 2 hours sailing, 12.5 hours motoring
Sea Trial Leg 2 - Avalon to Cat Harbor - 32NM, 3.5 hours sailing, 5 hours motor
Sea Trial Leg 2 - Cat Harbor to San Diego - 89NN, 5.5 hours sailing, 8 hours motor
Catalina Sea Trial - Summary - Action Items
2007-08-09 Baysail with Theo, Greta, and Kevin
2007-08-08 Baysail with Marc, Ron, and Ron
2007-07-23 Baysail with Don and Ginny
2007-07-04 Fourth of July- with Pat Kingsland
2007-06-24 Rhapsody's Coming Out Party - food, fun, and music at Sunroad Marina
2007-06-19 Maiden Voyage - We take her out for the first time with the new sails and many improvements.